The Wooster Inn: A Recipe for Success

by Karol Crosbie

Many of the key ingredients were in place. The restaurant at the Wooster Inn had charm, a beautiful natural setting, and 49 years of tradition. But when executive chef and general manager Ken Bogucki arrived in 2003, the restaurant was losing significant amounts of money. And if you put your ear close enough to the brick walkway, you could hear rumbling rumors of possible closure.

But Bogucki specializes in rescuing floundering restaurants. His turn-around recipe has resulted in business increasing 400 percent at the Wooster Inn, compared to three years ago.

Here’s how he did it.

Take generous portions of branding…

Although the Inn had an obvious, built-in brand—the American country inn—the brand had not been consistently developed or communicated. Menu items didn’t always reflect the theme. For example, Bogucki quickly banished from the menu the coconut-crusted scrod with lime.Too tropical. “When I came, the restaurant was kind of California-chichi,” remembers Bogucki. “ Little portions, unusual preparations.”

Bogucki’s goal was to add sophistication to traditional American ingredients and recipes. For example, he arrived on the job in the fall and immediately needed to find a new item for the holidays. Some of his best thinking occurs during the hour-long commute from his home in Strongsville to Wooster, says Bogucki, and one morning he created what has become his best selling entrée. “I started with an apple-stuffed chicken breast. This is what you would find at a country inn. But I knocked it up a level—I gave it a twist by adding a cherry brandy sauce.”

And if you’re a country inn chef, what do you do with all those left-over vegetables and bits of meat? You make pot pies. But if you’re a chef at an upscale country inn, you weave a flaky lattice out of puff pastry, add an edible flower garnish, and voila! “The presentation immediately announces ‘sophisticated country inn,’” Bogucki says.

Bogucki has also added to the sophistication of the restaurant by increasing the number of menu selections. Guests may choose from more than 20 entrées and an assortment of sandwiches, salads, and appetizers. A traditionalist? Try the honey stung chicken breast, fried and served with country gravy, and bacon and green onion mashed potatoes. Adventuresome? How about grilled salmon with martini sauce? Vegetarian? Try the portobello florentine served with country rice.

… flavor with a zest for learning …

By offering wine dinners, classes, and tastings, Bogucki has taken full advantage of the natural curiosity of citizens of a college town. The Inn’s six-course wine dinners are sold out, he says. Patrons are eager to learn how to match new wines with new foods.

Bogucki is also eager to learn. He is undergoing rigorous study and training to become a master sommelier, joining an elite, international group of wine stewards.

He and head chef Rick Keyes use a mélange of skills to plan their wine dinner menus, a process that begins with an informal wine-tasting in Bogucki’s office. On a warm summer morning, representatives from a major winery have come to call. They uncork their carefully selected offerings, and ideas bubble up.

The first wine the two men sample is a citrussy sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. “Maybe crab meat, layered with gazpacho, and fruit salsa? Served in a little parfait?” Bogucki throws out the first idea.

Ideas are tried and discarded.Would a viognier from California work with a salad dressed with the Inn’s signature French blue-cheese dressing? Nope, says Keyes. Too overpowering. And what to do with the pinot from New Zealand? Perhaps reduce it and use it in a sauce with veal? And the California cabernet? Maybe serve it with a chocolate mousse, wonders Bogucki. Nope, something nicer, says Keyes. Chocolate soup in chocolate cups? Bogucki tries again. Nope, says Keyes. Needs tweaking.

But they get there. How about a chocolate soufflé cake with raspberry sauce? Keyes asks. Perfect, agrees Bogucki.

Bogucki likes to involve the whole staff in the educational process. For example, the server who can sell the most specials and the chef ’s recommended wine receives a $10 bonus. “The guests see that the servers are excited about the food,” explains Bogucki. “ And then later, I’ll come out and say, ‘How did that work out for you?’ It becomes an experience. People are willing to try things that they might not ordinarily have ordered. It’s a safe place.”

View Page: 1 | 2